How to grow your own tomatoes. Here’s a comprehensive guide to growing tomatoes, including which varieties grow best in our climate, as well as when and where they can be grown. Also included are planting and planting, crop care, pesticides and diseases (including tomato blight and aphids), crop collection and storage.

Tomatoes are the most fruitful crop for home gardeners, as they taste much better than their store-bought cousins. Tomatoes grown for supermarket shelves have been chosen to travel well and look good on shelves as long as possible; Swearing your taste buds is not their priority.

In our comprehensive guide to how to grow tomatoes, we will cover everything you need to know about tomatoes planting, diseases, care and harvesting and many more.

In this article, we focus on a few simple steps to follow to grow tomatoes plant so that they can be harvest with joy

check out here the outline:


  • Terms Of Tomato E Explained
  • The Most Popular Type Of Fruit
  • Tomatoes Growing Habits
  • Where To Grow Tomatoes
  • Site And Soil
  • Mycorrhizal Fungi
  • When To Grow Tomatoes
  • Transplanting Tomatoes
  • Transplanting Leggy Plants
  • Tomatoes Crop Care
  • Watering Of Tomatoes
  • Feeding
  • Tomato Problems
  • Tomatoes Pest And Diseases
  • Harvesting Tomatoes
  • Tomatoes  Storage
  • How Far Apart To Plant Tomato Plants
  •  Tips For Planting Tomatoes Plants

Many commercially produced tomatoes are grown in soilless environments using artificial fertilizer solutions and are picked before they ripen; These two exercises make tomatoes which are quite nice but not delicious. Studies have shown that organic tomatoes grown on-site have much more complex chemistry than commercially produced fruits.

The chemistry is not only equivalent to a greater depth of taste but perhaps country tomatoes are healthier with higher levels of ‘lycopene’ pigments. Lycopene has been shown to help unlock blocked arteries, and the Mediterranean diet is thought to be such a healthy cause.

Another great advantage of growing your own tomatoes is the incredible variety of shapes, sizes, colors and flavors available. Like potatoes (they are of course relatives), there are different varieties ranging from “steak” to sweet berry “cherry”. They make it fun to grow and give rewards that they must be one of the stars of the home garden.


Before I go into detail about how to grow tomatoes, I would like to explain a few terms you may hear, your little understanding here will help you choose the right variety for your garden.


Standard – Medium-sized tomatoes about the size you will see in stores. Round, smooth tomatoes usually have red or yellow skin. These are well-intentioned tomatoes.
Beef stock – Great for large, Mediterranean-style tomato sandwiches and salads (tomato fries with mozzarella).

Be aware that large tomatoes need a long season to ripen and are therefore not suitable for indoor outdoors in cold weather. Suitable for raising beef stock if you have polytunnel or greenhouse for interesting and unusual variety and good taste.
Plum – Italian traditional Italian for making canning and pasta sauces. It is best not for a fresh taste, but well cooked and frozen.
Cherry – usually small round fruit with flavour. A variety of red and yellow-skinned gorgeous ‘Sungold’ with which you will definitely grow.


Defined species or cord – a common tall type of plant that is familiar to most people. These are usually grown on yarn or bamboo support and consist of a single long stem. Cordon varieties produce side shoots that develop into large side branches; These need to be removed as they retain the habit of necessary development. Spreading the side branches will reduce the yield of litter and ripe fruits.

Scheduled or shrub varieties – growing in containers, hanging baskets or limited space anywhere. Bush varieties do not grow with a central stem and have weak, broad growths, which makes them useful for growing under bell or mini polytunnels.

There is no need to remove the side shoots, as the bush closes automatically and usually grows to a width of 2-3 feet. The fruits are small and ripe relatively early.

Dwarf variety – very small and compact plants not exceeding 8 inches in height. Ideal for container culture. Bumper varieties are great if you have a small, raised, covered bed like a Vegtrug feeder pot because they won’t spread the cover.


Tomatoes are a subtropical plant and therefore need a location in full sun. This is especially important in most parts of the UK and Ireland where sunlight and heat are ubiquitous even in the middle.


The position opposite the wall or fence gives them a better chance of success until they can get enough water; Avoid hedges because the soil will be too dry.

Tomato plants grow very well in raised beds, they enjoy soil conditions that provide moisture without waterlogging.
In the cooler parts of the UK and Ireland (this is most of Ireland …) tomatoes grow best in polytunnels or greenhouse coverings. In lower summers, outdoor tomatoes may fail to ripen (especially larger varieties) or may fail completely.


Tomatoes need very fertile soil. Keep in mind that a healthy plant can grow up to 2 meters tall and bear hundreds of fruits while occupying a relatively small space (a cabbage takes up more space and only gives one head!). Prepare your bed by adding plenty of well-rotted fertilizer at the time of planting, as a complete wheelbarrow like every 3 square meters.

Tomatoes can also be grown in pots and extended bags but you will need a more intensive diet due to limited root space. Make sure the pots hold at least 40 litres and plant only 2 plants in a grog bag, these conditions are not ideal but maybe the only option in a small town garden or if you are growing on the veranda.

Use the best compost possible and feed them plenty of algae husk and poultry manure at the time of planting, extra liquid feed including organic algae feed.


Tomatoes respond well to inoculation with the mycorrhizal fungus that establishes a symbiotic relationship with the plant (beneficial for both species)) The fungus forms a network of hyphae that carry water and minerals from the tomato plant in exchange for the sugars produced by the roots.

Mycorrhizal fungi are available as a powder to coat the seedlings during planting or as a coconut fibre “cookie” placed under the planting hole.


Sow seeds at home from late February to mid-March using a heated propagator or a warm south-facing window sill. The temperature of the compost should be about 22 সেল C for the seeds to germinate; Young plants should also be kept warm in early summer when soil temperatures are at least 10 degrees above.
Tomato seeds can be sown in trays and pitted in larger pots but after the third leaf is formed I prefer to sow in modular trays and containers in 10 mm long pots. Seeds should be sown in less nutritious compost to a depth of 2 cm or 3/4 inch and sown in rich potting soil.


We need to balance our seedlings at the moment because we keep them artificially warm at certain times of the year if the light levels are not adequate. Too much heat and not enough light will result in higher and lower seedlings (they will grow faster if it is assumed that there will be more light) so we need to keep the heat to a minimum (10 degrees) and keep the plants in as bright a position as possible.

If you continue to grow extra inside the window sill, you may need to provide additional lighting using a grill lamp.
Plants born in pots should have gaps when their leaves touch to avoid overcrowding and the plants become elongated and “long”; The best tomato plants are short and stocky rather than tall and slender. Compost should also be kept moist and should never be dried.


When tomato plants are sown in pots or pots, they need to be transplanted to their final location when they reach a height of about 15 centimetres (6 inches) before the roots are limited by pots or ‘twisted’.
When the tomato plants grow in the shade and you plan to plant them outside, keep them firm for a week or two before planting them in the final position outside.

To do. Leave them alone until they can go out overnight but without exceeding all the risks of the condition. This is especially important in the UK because the months of May and June can often be cold and windy.
Dig a hole (45 cm / 18 inches) for each tree in a bed about 5 cm / 2 inches from the pot. If you are growing unspecified or cordon varieties, you need to provide assistance.

When the other end can be planted and tied with the help of the top of the tree you can do it by burying the long length below the main ball, it is much easier where you can attach the bars to support the culture. For outdoor planting, wide tomato containers are available.

Remove the tomato plant from the pot, keeping the root ball as uninterrupted as possible, placing it in the hole and filling it around the plant with soil. The soil should be 5 cm / 2 inches higher than the pot. Planting more tomato plants in the ground than in pots will encourage the formation of additional roots. When the water is dry, the condition is good.


If your tomatoes are a little longer and elongated, you can do a partial remedy by planting them deeper than usual and burying up to 2/3 of the tree with the lower leaves. Tomato stalks have the ability to grow roots from buried stems, so you can create a deeper and more extensive root system.


If you are extending the cord strains (and there is a good chance of this), you need to glue some kind of shoots to prevent the growth of the branches on the side of the power-sapping. The surrounding shoots will appear at the point where a leaf branch meets the main stem;

When they are small they can be pinned with your nails, but if allowed to grow they will need to be cut with a sharp knife or pruning scissors. New tomato growers may have plenty of time to identify these sprouts and as a result, may be mistaken for starting a new cluster (you don’t want to drop them!),


Leave a few days if you’re not sure, if sprout leaf production starts, With his head! Keep in mind that the side shoot is always between the branch and the main stem, once you get in the habit of staining them you will wonder why you ever found this problem.

If the fruits are slowly settling in early summer, apply pressure to the tree at noon to encourage pollination.
If you are growing in a greenhouse or polytunnel, be sure to have good ventilation, especially in hot weather, to prevent the spread of pests and diseases.


Stopping is the practice of removing the main growing tip to prevent new fruit clusters from forming and to encourage existing fruits to ripen. If you are growing outdoors, this is usually done when four or five fruits are set, but it is best to stop if three farms are present in the winter. For polytunnel cultivation, one can expect seven or eight trusses, but further limit the tree to five or six in gardens in the northern or winter year.
To prevent the plants from cutting off the top of the main stem, continue removing the side shoots as usual.


Water well at planting, then lightly begin to set the fruit. Once the fruit is set, water well with 12 litres (2 gallons) per plant at least once a week. The chance of the soil drying out in the water has been shown to improve taste, but be careful because heavy water can cause an increase in drought conditions that result in fruit set.

Watering will take a little practice, but keeping the plants slightly dry will make the taste more intense.
Among the schemes that act as water tanks, I have had good success in burying perforated plastic bottles on the ground. Cut the bottom of the 2.5-litre bottle and make many small holes on the side.

Turn the bottle upside down with the bottle cap and when you drink the water the water will seep through the walls of the bottle and the soil will water deeply.


Once the fruit is set, feed each week with a liquid comfrey meal or a seaweed tonic made for tomatoes. It should be remembered that tomatoes have two types of roots, deep roots to carry water to the plant and shallow roots that receive nutrients. When feeding tomatoes it is best to water the soil around the plant with a food solution without using the tank from the bottle above.


A few pests or diseases bother the outside tomatoes, the failure is usually due to wet or cold weather. Temperature In winter the roots are unable to absorb nutrients. It can also be the cause of the end of flowering.

Fruit Separators – Irregular watering with some varieties compared to other varieties is a common problem for tomatoes. More regular water supply should solve this problem.

Calcium Deficiency and Flower Tip Rots – Flower tip rotten tomatoes occur around the base of the fruit due to a dark and often decaying region and calcium deficiency. The problem may be due to watering because calcium absorption is slowed down in drought conditions.

Again, more regular water supply should solve this problem.

Magnesium deficiency – Symptoms Leaves turn yellow when lead veins are green, old leaves are first affected. Fix the problem using ground magnesium limestone.


Whiteflies are most likely to affect your tomatoes as pest adult flies (they look like tiny moths) lay eggs under the leaves. Growing eggs feed on the leaves, hiding a sticky one that attracts other diseases. As soon as you see the eggs, try to wash them and spray to remove the other with water.

Great biological controls are available here, small wireless that feeds on whiteflies. Ancarcia Formosa eggs are available by mail order and should be used at the first signs of attack if the plants are already infected, it is too late.

1. Tomato blight
It is caused by the fungus Phytophthora infestans which is also the cause of potato shaking. Symptoms are brown marks on the leaves that grow rapidly in size. If it stays, any developing fruit will start to turn brown and rot.
Click here for more information about Tomato Blight.

2. Aphids (black flies and green flies)
Planting marigolds attract beneficial insects such as ladybugs and hoverflies and prefers to eat black flies. Spraying water on trees also works – it just knocks out the black flies of plants. None of this method works in the garden center for any chemical sprays – most work well.

3. Mosaic virus
There are different types of mosaic viruses that can affect tomatoes, but these can be identified by all the leaves that turn yellow, then tan and burp. It is a highly contagious virus that can be transmitted from plant to plant by humans.


Choose the fruit as soon as it ripens for the best taste (colour and size will detect it) – eat as soon as possible. This encourages more fruit production.

Harvest tomatoes

Collects all the fruits with the threat of frost in October / November and ripens them on a window sill. With the help of steep varieties, it is possible to gently flatten the trees and keep them in the gardens to protect them from frost.


Wash and dry your tomatoes before storing. A window sill, counter or bowl works great if you don’t plan on storing your tomatoes for more than a week. If you know that you will not use them for the next few days, low temperatures will help preserve the fruit.

Storage in the refrigerator is not recommended, as cold temperatures can reduce taste and cause pores. Your freshly picked tomatoes should last longer than those bought from the supermarket at the kitchen counter, perhaps it lasts a few days when you get them.


When planting tomatoes in cages, seedlings should be about 1 meter (3 feet) away. Stacking requires about 0.5 m (2 ft) between the trees. Require to tie the trees lightly as they grow, but keep a bet when planting seedlings. If you plant tomato trees to grow naturally, you will need 3 feet (1 m) between the trees and 5 feet (1.5 m) between the rows.


When planting tomato seedlings for home use, here’s a helpful tip. If you only want fresh fruit, buy about three trees per person in your family. If you are looking for fruit for processing, you will need five to ten trees per person. Before we talk about how to plant tomatoes, let’s talk about what to look for before planting seedlings.

Tomato plants should be straight and stiff and 6 to 8 inches (15 to 20.5 cm) tall. They must have four to six true pages. These six-pack houses will also replace individually grown tomatoes.

Planting will be the same for both but tear the peat pot around the individual level or make sure it is below ground level.

source: gardenersknowhow



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