HOW TO PROPAGATE PEAR TREES FROM CUTTINGS: COMPLETE GUIDE
When I moved into my small, new home with big patches for the backyard, I knew I had to fill it with trees.
It was a beautiful piece of the forest before it was cleared for construction. I told the builder to cut down as few trees as possible.
He took almost everything, putting bangs around the perimeter that just weren’t better than ideal.
Since then, I have vowed that if I ever rebuild a house from scratch, I will be there when they clear the ground so that they do not shrink more than necessary.
I decided to plant as many trees as possible. First, my husband and I bought and planted 11 trees, including four fruit trees.
Our wallets were a bit shocking, but they were worth the investment. Now I have started growing my own pear tree from the cut.
Typically, they are propagated to create clones by creating or emerging clones – and these processes require a special set of skills and tools.
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Trying to grow fruit trees from seed is usually not effective because they do not produce faithfully to the mother tree.
You may be wondering: Can pear trees grow from stem cuttings?
While this is no easy task, the answer is a resounding yes. Additionally, with a cutting root, you will grow clones of the parent tree.
So, if you want a satisfying and user-friendly way to promote pear trees, this guide will guide you through the process.
Here’s what I’ll cover:
What to learn from this Article?
1. Find the right type of cutting
2. Collect your supplies
3. Taking the cuttings
4. Prepare your cutting for a successful root
5. Repotting Pear Tree Cuttings
DISCOVER THE RIGHT TYPE OF CUTTING
Pears are part of the genus Pyrus and are usually cultivated in home gardens in two species: P. Cummunis, European pear and P. pyrifolia, Asian varieties. Both can be propagated by cutting the stem.
You need to take a few steps to make sure the branches you take are suitable for the original. The first step must be to look for an existing pear tree to make a cut. Maybe your neighbor will grow a few admirable varieties and agree to give you one or two branches.
Once you’ve found your source, it’s time to decide what kind of cut you want. Two types that work best for the roots: softwood and semi-hardwood.
A portion of the softwood branch is taken from late spring to early summer during tree development. As the name implies, the wood is softer and the roots grow faster than semi-hardwood.
If you look closely at a branch, you can see where the new growth is happening. The wood is lighter than the old growth and it just looks softer and greener and newer.
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Depending on where you live, a semi-hardwood branch can be taken from mid-summer to late or early fall. At this point, the new growth in early summer will turn brown-grey, walnut and energy.
Softwood branches grow roots faster but they tend to dry out more easily which can slow down or stop any chance of root growth. Semi-hardwoods grow roots more slowly but dry out easily.
Once you have decided what kind of young branches to take and where to find them, you can move on to your supply collection.
YOU HAVE TO GATHER YOUR SUPPLIES
Although it is not as complicated as grafting on a rootstock, you will need a set of supplies to successfully root your cutting.
You will need:
1. Pruning shears
2. Three to six (or how many more cuts you want to take) clear plastic cups with about three holes in the bottom.
Fun. Sand the bottom of the cup to prevent the fungus from eating the pores and roots from the fungus. Sand
4. You can make your own from a dirt-free root medium like Espoma Premium Potting Mix, or a mixture of perlite, vermiculite, peat algae and sand, available through Amazon.
5. A spray bottle to wash the items so they don’t dry out.
6. Routing Hormone or Cloning Gel – I use this Arabico Organic Cloning Gel.
7. A-flat starter tray with a damp dome like this set from Home Depot.
8. Heating mats for seedlings, such as from home depots.
The list seems a bit long and complicated, but it’s about providing the best conditions to cut the roots of a pear branch and cut the base of the branch at a 45-degree angle.
Then cut off all the leaves and buds present in the bottom two-thirds of the cut. New roots will grow from the leaf nodes.
WHEN TAKING PEAR CUTTINGS
Irrespective of if you take softwood or semi-hardwood, you will measure a part or section that starts at eh tip of the branch and get to about 6 to 8 inches back which is along the stem.
Pruning the shears by cutting away from the tree, and you will have to take not less than three to six (3-6) cutting but does not mean all will be successful. You have taken them for two distinct cultivars if you can.
You have to trim the base of the flower of the branch to 45-degree angle.
Next step is trim off all the leaves and any buds present on the bottom 2/3 of the cutting. Don’t worry for new roots will eventually grow from the leaf nodes.
Maintain pear trees as opposed to damp cuttings, but don’t get damp, causing them to rot. Wait patiently for about a month, during which time you can remove the pot from the mat and place it in a safe place away from the sun, cold and wind.
Allow the plants to grow in size so that they are large enough to support the elements before transplanting into the garden – about three months. After three months, you can transplant directly into the garden. Now you have to wait two to four years to taste the fruits of your labor.
WHEN PREPARE YOUR CUTTINGS FOR ROOTING SUCCESS
Gently scrape the outer bark one or two inches below the stem and around the leaf nodes, then dip the bottom into your powdered rooting hormone or cloning gel.
Instantly, make a hole in the potting soil and place the cut pieces in their clear plastic cups and place them in your star tray.
Place the moisture dome on top of your seed-starter tray and, if applicable, on top of your heating mat.
Make sure your chosen location receives at least six to eight hours of direct light and an average temperature of 70-75 F per day.
Keep the mat warm at 70 ° F and spray the branches twice a day.
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Keep the potting soil mixed with water every day, keep it moist but not fragrant. The exposed dome should always be kept moist to protect the exposed part of the stem from drying out.
Root formation from cuttings can take some time: from a few weeks to a few months. So be patient and keep this little pear tree warm and moist for as long as you need it.
Softwood cuttings can take root in about three weeks, but semi-hardwood usually takes at least six weeks.
You can test for root formation by gently pulling on the stems. If you feel any resistance, you know that it has begun to take hold.
If you begin to notice the fuzzy appearance of any part of the rod, gently wipe it off with a cloth and open the vents of the damp dome to allow a little dry air to enter and push it out.
Mold As the roots develop you will be able to see them through the clear plastic of the containers.
If small flowers or new leaves begin to appear, but the roots are not an inch or two in length, you may want to cut the new growth to keep the plant focused on the growth of these roots.
When you see that the roots have grown two inches long, you are on the path to success. Now is the time to replant your young pear trees.
WHEN REPOTTING PEAR TREE CUTTINGS
To successfully report root cuts, fill an 8-inch pot with fresh, sterile potting soil, leaving a hole in the middle of the size of the clear plastic cups you started.
Gently loosen the edge of the clear plastic cup with the baby tree and gently lift it up. Place it in the new pot and sprinkle the soil around the developing main ball.
A thin layer of mulch of straw or wood chips to help retain moisture.
Cut freshly replaced pears, water thoroughly and place in a place that receives at least six to eight hours of sunlight through a window.
If you don’t get enough sunlight during the day, you can place an extra light near the tree and turn it on for a few hours in the morning and evening before sunrise.
These need to be extended indoors or in the greenhouse for up to a year after reporting. Water several times a week or whenever you are drying the top layer of soil
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During this time, some of their leaves should be growing, but if you see any flower buds, be sure to remove them.
Then in the spring, when your root cut is between six and 12 months, plant your baby tree in your garden.
It will take three to five years for the fruit to grow big enough. However, this first fruit does not have the extra sweet taste!
PEARY HARD WORK RESULT
It’s amazing that you can grow a whole new pear tree from a thin six-inch section of branch.
Have you ever tried it? Does your garden now have tall and beautiful pear trees that you can humbly boast to your friends? I’d love to hear your story and questions in the comments section below.
And for more information on pears in your garden, check out these guides on our website:
Common Problems with Growing Pear Trees