In this Ultimate article, we will pay out attention on a few simple steps to follow in poinsettia fertilizer and how and when to fertilize poinsettia so that they can be useful for you and help you to make an alternative way of growing poinsettia
check out here what you will learn:
- Fertilizer Recommendations For Poinsettias
- Basic Poinsettia Fertilizer Programs
- Specific Nutritional Problems
- Sub-Irrigation For Poinsettias Fertilizer
- How And When To Fertilize Poinsettia Poinsettia
- When To Fertilize Poinsettias
- How To Fertilize A Poinsettia
Now let start…
FERTILIZER RECOMMENDATIONS FOR POINSETTIAS
Poinsettias can be successfully fertilized using several different approaches. In fact, it sometimes seems that there are as many different ways to fertilize as there are growers! This is probably due to the fact that there are a number of factors that interact to determine the number of nutrients that plants receive.
Rate (ppm N) is just one factor, as it interacts with application frequency, applied volume, amount of leaching, and environment to affect plant response.
This article looks at the basic fertilizer needs and special nutritional needs of the poinsettia.
BASIC POINSETTIA FERTILIZER PROGRAMS
Some commonly used fertilizers for poinsettias are 15-0-15, 15-16-17, 20-10-20, and EXCEL Cal-Mag 15-5-15. But other types of fertilizers can also be used to grow good plants. For example, I have been using 20-0-20 with superphosphate added to the growing medium for a few years with excellent results.
The commonly used dose range is 200-300 ppm N; I recommend 250 ppm N.
Although I tend to think of it in terms of Scott’s fertilizer because I use it; Plantex, Masterblend, and Greencare fertilizers also produce excellent poinsettias.
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Regular fertilization should begin when planting, as it helps the plants establish themselves and promotes rapid branch development after pinching. Fertilization should continue regularly up to 2 to 3 weeks before the sale, then it should be stopped.
Reducing fertilization at this time helps extend the life of the plant after harvest and prevents soluble salt from damaging the bracts (this practice really works!).
Soil tests should be done several times during the season to monitor plant nutrition. Ideally, the potting mix should be tested before planting, then after planting when the branches are approximately 2-3 “long (early to mid-September), again when the bracts begin to show colour, and finally only before stop fertilizing at the end of the season.
PH is an important part of soil analysis. While poinsettias tolerate a wide pH range quite well, the target range is 5.8 to 6.2. If the pH falls within this range, it helps maintain the availability of calcium, magnesium, and molybdenum.
SPECIFIC NUTRITIONAL PROBLEMS
Calcium deficiency Bract necrosis, leaf edge burning in mother plants, and weak stems are disorders associated with calcium (Ca) deficiency. The main emphasis is on the necrosis of the bracts. Note that bract necrosis is also a symptom of Botrytis infection, injuries caused by pesticide spraying, excessive use of late fertilizers, and simply “old age.”
Calcium is most critical during bract expansion to prevent bract necrosis. The amount of Ca that reaches the bracts is influenced not only by the supply of Ca to the growing medium but also by the movement of water through the roots, through the plant and out of the leaves. High relative humidity prevents perspiration and movement of Ca through the plant.
Therefore, adequate ventilation is very important to reduce relative humidity during bract development.
Ca deficiency can generally be avoided by proper liming and the use of EXCEL Cal-Mag or 15-0-15, 20-0-20, or calcium nitrate/potassium nitrate supplements to a fertilizer containing calcium. match. However, due to the role of moisture in the movement of water and Ca through the plant, the use of these fertilizers may not always prevent necrosis of the bracts.
Ca sprays on the bracts are very effective in preventing necrosis of the bracts. Weekly sprays should begin when the bracts begin to color and continue until pollen appears. Solutions are prepared to provide 200 to 400 ppm Ca using calcium chloride. A poinsettia compatible self-adhesive spreader should be added to the solution. The bracts are sprayed with a fine mist.
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At present, Ca deficiency is the most accepted nutritional explanation for bract necrosis.
However, research by Rich McAvoy and Bernard Bible at the University of Connecticut suggest a more complicated scenario that may include boron nutrition and other factors.
More effective treatments than those discussed here can be developed to prevent this potentially serious problem.
Magnesium deficiency The main symptom is interveinal chlorosis of the lower leaves on the branches of a pinched plant.
Magnesium deficiency can be avoided with EXCEL Cal-Mag or the monthly application of magnesium sulfate at a rate of 1 to 3 pounds / 100 gal. Mg deficiency is most likely in November.
Nutrition with phosphorus. The low content of phosphorus (P) can cause a reduction in the size of the plant or small bracts. This can occur if Calcium Nitrate / Potassium Nitrate, 15-0-15, or another low-P fertilizer is used for an extended period to fertilize poinsettias growing in a low-P mix.
Note that most commercial soilless environments do not contain superphosphate (0-20-0) or other phosphate fertilizers.
Too much P can lead to overgrowth. Several years ago, I studied the effect of superphosphate level on poinsettia growth and phosphorous leaching (Cox, 1999). Plants are grown with 9 lbs./cu. yard
they had larger bracts than plants grown at lower rates, but they were too high. In addition to overstimulating growth in height, excess P has been related to necrosis of the bracts (Whipker and Hammer, 1994) and water contamination by nutrients.
Molybdenum deficiency. Chlorosis between the veins and marginal necrosis occurs in newly mature leaves and middle-aged leaves. Mo deficiency is most likely in November, but this problem is rare today and may have disappeared with “Heggs” and “Lilo.” The best way to avoid this problem is to maintain the recommended pH and use “peat-lite” fertilizers regularly.
Foliar sprays of 1 ppm Mo are very effective in preventing a deficiency before symptoms appear or in correcting the deficiency if it is detected when chlorosis first appears.
Ammonium toxicity. This is another cause of interveinal chlorosis.
This problem has practically disappeared with the widespread adoption of “peat-lite” fertilizers that contain around 50% N nitrate. Do not use 20-20-20 for Poinsettias
SUB-IRRIGATION FOR POINSETTIAS FERTILIZER
Bottom-watered and fertilized poinsettias can be safely fed with the same rate (ppm) of fertilizer as surface-watered plants. I recommend the 200-250 ppm N range for sub-irrigation of poinsettias.
This recommendation is based on my observations of what experienced New England growers do and my own work at UMass (Cox, 1998). My study results showed that 100 ppm N was good too, but 325 ppm N was too high.
Yes, soluble salts were higher on the substrate surface with sub-irrigation, but in the root zone (the bottom two-thirds of the pot) there was no difference in the level of soluble salts between plants. under-irrigated and watered from above. Leaf analysis did not reveal substantial differences in plant nutrition between the sub-irrigated plants and those with higher irrigation.
HOW AND WHEN TO FERTILIZE POINSETTIA POINSETTIA
Poinsettias are showy tropical plants loved for the bright colour they provide during the winter holidays. With proper care, poinsettias can maintain their beauty for two to three months, and if you’re dedicated, you can even regrow poinsettias the following year. Let’s discover a very important aspect of this treatment: the fertilization of poinsettias.
The best fertilizer for poinsettia plants Poinsettias works well with any good quality all-purpose fertilizer. A water-soluble fertilizer is the easiest to apply, but a dry fertilizer will also satisfy your poinsettia fertilizer needs.
Make sure to water the plant liberally after fertilizing the poinsettias, especially if you are using a dry fertilizer. Otherwise, the fertilizer can burn the roots and damage the plant. Don’t bother fertilizing your poinsettia while it’s blooming; It is not necessary.
Also, if you don’t intend to preserve the plant and your goal is simply to enjoy it as an occassions decoration, no fertilizer is needed. However, be sure to keep the plant well watered, but never soggy. Place the plant in a cool, bright place, away from heat and drafts.
WHEN TO FERTILIZE POINSETTIAS
Knowing how to fertilize a poinsettia is just as important as when. If you save your poinsettia for regrowth, the plant will benefit from a dose of water-soluble all-purpose fertilizer in late March or early April. It is also time to give the plant a good size.
As a general rule of thumb, continue to fertilize the poinsettia regularly, about once a month in the spring and summer, using the same diluted medium fertilizer. 13 DIY Projects That Will Bring Your Garden Inside During The Holidays And Help Feed The World If you live in a temperate climate and can get your poinsettia outside during the summer months, make sure you keep the plant well watered and fertilized. Bring the plant indoors before the first frost.
A well-cared-for and well-fed poinsettia will produce these abundant, colorful flower bracts over and over again, or at least for as long as you want to keep the plant.
HOW TO FERTILIZE A POINSETTIA
Poinsettia (Euphorbia pulcherrima) is a perennial plant that heralds the approach of the holidays with colorful bracts. It is hardy in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 9 through 11 but can be kept as a houseplant in any zone. Poinsettias don’t need fertilizers when they’re in bloom, but they will need extra care if you plan to keep them longer. After flowering, these plants need fertilizers and minor pruning to live until the next season.
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Step 1
If the soil feels dry to the touch, give poinsettia water. Add water to the container until water comes out of the drain. Poinsettia does not like compacted soil, but leaves dry out and fall off due to prolonged drought. Water the poinsettia all year round.
Step 2
Apply poinsettia fertilizer six weeks after flowering stops. The colored braces of the til points dry out and point to the end of flowering. Off mix in 1/2 solution of balanced and versatile house plant fertilizer. Water the plant with the fertilizer solution until it comes out of the drainage hole in the container.
Step 3
Six weeks after the last application, apply a second fertilizer and feed the points. Mix in a 1/2 solution of balanced and versatile house plant fertilizer. Water the plant with the fertilizer solution until it comes out of the drainage hole in the container.
Step 4
Make scissors 8 inches long at the beginning of May. Use scissors to cut the stems. Place the plant in a sunny window and continue watering.
Step 5
Apply fertilizer as soon as new growth comes. It happens in late May. Use 1/2 fertilizer solution to water the plant till it comes out of the drainage hole in the container.
Step 6
Take out Pointsetia in June. Keep the tree in a shady place out of direct sunlight. Keep an eye on the soil as it can dry out more often than the interior of a treehouse.
Step 7
Transplant poinsettia in late June. Use a container 4 inches in diameter from your existing container. Fill the new container with peat moss, including sterile soil-free potting soil. Remove the plant from its existing pot, shake the soil from its roots and plant in new pots.
Step 8
Water the newly transplanted poinsettia with 1/2 fertilizer solution. The solution is poured on the soil of the container until it flows through the hole in the container. Be sure to moisten the potting soil well to avoid air pockets around the poinsettia roots.
Step 9
Continue to fertilize Poinsettia once every 30 days using 1/2 fertilizer solution. When the soil is dry, apply monthly fertilizer until mid-December, when watering the plant.
Step 10
It starts to bloom in October. Place Pointsetia in a dark cabinet or box at 5 am. The toilet or box should be completely dark at 6 am, as any exposure to light will interfere with the flowering process. The closet or box should be between 65 and 70 degrees Fahrenheit. Place the pointsetia in a sunny window for the rest of the hour.
Step 11
Plant the tree in the dark every night until Thanksgiving. If the soil feels dry to the touch, keep it moist. Poinsettias should be in its occasions colors before Thanksgiving.
Step 12
Keep the poinsettia away from direct sunlight after the bracket has changed color.
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